Electric Bike Conversion System - FRONT w/ LiFePO4

Speed: 20 MPH / Range: 12-30 miles
Charging Time 2 Hours 45 Minutes with 3.5amp Charger

The E-BikeKit™ Complete Conversion System offers the ultimate electric bicycle conversion solution. The complete system has everything you need "out of the box" to convert your conventional bike into a high-quality electric bike.

The Complete System Includes Both the E-BikeKit™ Conversion Kit and the E-BikeKit™ brand LiFePo4 battery and charger.

With this system you can expect to go from 12-30 miles on a full charge depending on the weight of the rider, the amount of pedaling and the route.

This complete conversion system with LiFePO4 battery pack offers both e-bike novices and experienced electric bicycle riders safety, power, convenience and reliability. Engineered to comply with USA Federal guidelines the E-BikeKit™ system is "Dealer Friendly" and requires no insurance or licensing in most states. If you are deciding whether to convert your existing bike or to buy a complete electric bike you should know that bikes converted with the E-BikeKit™ Complete Conversion System are comparable to complete electric bikes costing more than $2500. The E-BikeKit™ Complete Conversion System is simply the best conversion system available.

PLEASE NOTE: Front wheel conversions require a bike with steel forks.

Front Wheel: w/ 500-750 Watt Brushless Hub Motor
Rim:Flat profile double-walled
Spokes: 13 Gauge
Hub Weight: 14 Pounds
Hub Width: 85mm / 3.35 Inches (requires standard 100mm width between fork dropouts)
Top Speed: 20 MPH
Power/Torque: 36V/500W/430 RPM No Load
Range: 12-30 Miles
**All dependent on battery type, weight of rider, amount of pedaling, route and weather conditions.

E-BikeKit™ Conversion Kit Includes:

1 x Front Wheel w/ 500-750 Watt Brushless Hub Motor
1 x 36 Volt 22 Amp Intelligent Motor Controller (works w/ any 36v or 48v battery pack)
1 x Twist or Thumb Throttle & Matching Grip
2 x E-Brake Handles w/ Electric Cutoff Switches
1 x Battery Harness Wire (for connecting any 36v or 48v battery)
1 x Universal Stainless Steel Torque Arm (a must have for safety)
15 x Black Zip Ties (3 sizes for neatly securing wiring to the frame)
1 x 2.5mm Metric Hex Key (to mount the throttle)
1 x E-Bike Spoke Wrench
1 x Owner's Manual & Installation Instructions
1 x E-BikeKit™ T-Shirt
*Standard Anderson Powerpole 30Amp Connectors

E-BikeKit™ 9AH LiFePo4 Battery & 2.0 Amp Charger Standard:

1 x Smart Charger (Constant Current 2.0A – Constant Voltage 43.6V)
1 x 14 AWG battery wire harness
Battery Weight: 9 Pounds

Industry Leading 18 Month Warranty

LiFePo4 Battery Packs are warranted for a period of 1 Year or 18 months from the date of purchase depending on the battery purchased. A pack will be deemed defective if it fails to deliver 80% of nominal capacity within 1 year of purchase when discharged at 1.5C with a static resistive load following full charge with an approved charger. The E-BikeKit™ 36v 10ah Prismatic LiFePo4 will be deemed defective if it fails to deliver any discharge within 12-18 months of purchase when discharged at 1.5C with a static resistive load following full charge with an approved charger.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 8 (Adjust The Front Derailleur)

The front derailleur is adjusted like the rear one - the principles are the same. Look closely to find which limit screw does what since their positions vary on different models of front derailleurs.

1. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel to and above the largest front sprocket by only about three millimeters (1/8 inch).

2. With the rear derailleur in high (smallest sprocket), tighten the front derailleur high gear screw until you cannot shift into high gear (large front sprocket). Back out the screw while turning the pedals and operating the shifter until you just get a clean shift every time.

3. Repeat this procedure for shifting down to the smallest front sprocket, but with the rear derailleur engaged in low gear.

4. Check all combinations of front and rear gear selection. You may have to compromise the adjustments a little to get a clean shift in all cases.

5. Because the chainwheels (front sprockets) are probably not perfectly flat, try all combinations of shifting when the pedals are at varying angles of rotation.

Sometimes front derailleurs will require a little bending to get proper function. If the chain sometimes falls off even though the adjustment seems correct, try bending the front edge of the derailleur cage in a little bit.

If the derailleur is reluctant to engage high or low gear, the cable may need adjustment. Shift toward the largest sprocket, pushing the shifter all the way in its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt, pull the slack out of the cable and retighten.

If that doesn't work, the cable may be sticky or rusted, and should be cleaned or replaced.

If you have done everything right, but the chain still falls off occasionally, or the derailleur is slow to shift, consider the following points:

The chainwheels may be bent. If so, you'll see them waver as you turn the pedals. You can simply bend them back into plane. Do this carefully with a rubber hammer.

One or more teeth of the chainwheels may be bent. You may be able to straighten a bent tooth by grabbing it with an adjustable wrench.

The chain or the chainwheels may be worn out.

The chain or the chainwheels may be of low quality. This is common, and the usual cures are to ignore the problem, or spend money. Keep in mind that to get the performance we do get with bicycles, the engineering is a compromise between reasonable weight, features, and cost. If you want perfection, you've got to pay the price. The price isn't always money. Even if you spent a million dollars for the best bicycle money could buy, you'd still find some aspects of your machine which would be less than satisfactory. Hey, it's either settle, or walk!

Skipping problems are not related to the derailleurs. If your bike has a skip when pedaling hard, check the skip's frequency. If it is once for every revolution of the chain, there is probably a stiff link. Try lubricating and flexing the chain laterally. If the skip is once per each revolution of the front or rear sprockets, look for damage or build up of dirt on the offending sprocket. If the skip frequency is random, the chain and freewheel are probably worn out, requiring replacement for best performance.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 7 (Adjust The Rear Derailleur)

Notice the two small screws on the body of the rear derailleur. (Some Suntour models have three screws. Ignore the top one for now.) The high gear limit screw stops the derailleur from shifting past high gear (smallest sprocket), and the low gear screw prevents it from going past low gear (largest sprocket). If a limit screw is too loose, the chain will fall off. If too tight, the system will not engage the gear.

Locations of the adjustment screws will vary on different brands, but they all function the same way.

1. Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.

Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.

Update: A reader brought to my attention that there is a third screw that I need to address. This is the "b" screw or "chain gap adjustment" screw. It is located right where the derailleur attaches to the hanger and actually pushes the derailleur back in order for the derailleur to keep from contacting the cassette. Simply move your chain to the largest gear and then adjust this screw to barely keep the derailleur from coming into contact with the cassette. Simple!

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 6 (Adjust The Bikes Brakes I)

1. Squeeze the bicycle's brake pads against the bikes rim to see if they are at the right height. The bike's brakes should not rub on the tire nor should they be able to slip under the bike rim. (Very dangerous!)

To prevent squeaking, the bike brake pads should also be "toed-in," which means the trailing (front) edge of the pads should touch the bike rim with the brake applied lightly. When you apply the brake hard, the pads squish a little and you should get full contact to the rim. With most steel brakes on older bikes, you carefully bend the caliper arms to get proper toe-in. With the aluminum alloy cantilever bicycle brakes found on most modern road, mountain, and all other bikes, set the toe-in by adjusting and re-tightening the brake pad holder. Do not bend cantilever brakes, or brakes on old Italian bikes because they are made from a more fragile metal or mounted on posts that can be damaged.

Some shimano and other cantilever brakes have springs that can be unhooked while adjusting brake pad alignment and cable tension. Re-hook the springs when done.

2. Look for an adjusting barrel, a long hollow bolt in which the cable housing terminates, but the inner wire goes through. This adjusting barrel may be on the hand lever, or on the brake caliper (the main part of the braking system at the wheel). Screw the barrel all the way in to loosen the cable as much as possible.

3. Loosen the holding bolt, pull the cable inner wire tight while squeezing the brake pads together, and re-tighten the holding bolt. The holding bolt may trap the cable inner wire under a plate or washer to secure it, or the holding bolt may have a hold drilled through it to capture the inner wire.

Sometimes an assistant is helpful for this step. An expert can usually squeeze the brake pads against the rim with one hand while tightening the holding bolt with the other. If you can't manage it, and don't have an assistant handy, a brake inner wire pulling tool is available. This is called a 'third hand tool.' You may not have a third hand tool. In that case, you can generally grab the inner wire with a pair of pliers just past the holding bolt, and twist, pulling the slack out while tightening the holding bolt with your other hand.

The tightness of this bolt is critical. The first mistake most beginning bike mechanics make is to break an holding bolt. Yet, if you don't tighten it enough, when the brake is applied hard in an emergency stop, the cable will slip through the bolt, causing an accident. You must test the bolt by pulling hard on the brake hand lever to be sure the cable does not slip. This test is good for cables too. A weak cable will snap. You'd rather have it snap during the test than when riding!

4. You can fine adjust the brake tension by unscrewing the adjusting barrel a little bit. This effectively shortens the cable.

5. Center the brake if it is too close to one side of the rim. Before this step, make sure the wheel is mounted correctly. Sometimes what appears to be a badly centered brake is simply a wheel fastened in slightly sideways.

If It Is A Sidepull Or Centerpull Brake:

Try loosening the mounting nut (that holds the brake caliper onto the bike), holding the brake caliper centered, then retightening the nut.

If the caliper stubbornly returns to the same position, leave the nut tight, then gently bang on the spring with a punch or dull screwdriver and hammer. The impact will cause the position of the caliper to shift.

If It Is A Cantilever Bike Brake:

Many modern brakes have an adjusting screw on both calipers that applies pressure to the spring. The more you tighten the screw, the further away the brake pad will rest from that side of the rim.

Some Shimano cantilever brakes (and "U-Brakes") have a two millimeter allen screw that you turn to adjust centering.

Some Suntour cantilever brakes have an allen head screw that you can loosen, allowing you to reposition the spring, and then retighten.

If no spring tension adjuster is found, most cantilever brakes have the brake pads mounted on rods so that you can loosen the holders, slide the pads to the proper position and retighten. It is difficult to hold the pad in the proper position while retightening. Patience and perhaps a pair of pliers is required.

Sometimes adjusting the position of the pads is insufficient. Release the cable, then check to see if one of the pivots is stiff or sticking. If so, disassemble, clean with sandpaper, apply grease, and reassemble.

6. Check all the nuts and bolts in the braking system (that you have not already attended to) for tightness.

7.Sidepull brakes often need one more adjustment. The Centerbolt has two nuts that work like a bearing adjustment to keep the looseness of the brake properly adjusted. If too tight, the brake will not spring open. If set too loose, the brake will grab or chatter.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 5 (Bicycling Wheel Truing I)

Straightening a bike wheel is more of an art than a science, but it is a skill anyone can learn with enough practice.

The most common wheel problem is a lateral or sideways bend. For a bike wheel laterally out of true, this is what you do:

Leave the wheel on the bike and the tire and tube inflated. Hang the bike up. Turn the wheel around until you find the area which is the most bent. Use the brake pads (perhaps adjusted closer) or a pencil held next to the bike frame to indicate clearly the location of the bend.

If you were to shorten some of the spokes going from the bent area to the side of the hub opposite the direction of the bend, or lengthen the spokes on the side toward which it is bent, the rim would bend back toward the center.

And this is exactly what you do. First, experiment with the effect. Grab a handful of spokes about half-way between the hub and the rim at the brake caliper. Squeeze, which will momentarily bend the spokes, effectively shortening them. You will see the wheel rim move toward the side of the brake.

By turning a spoke nipple clockwise as seen from the top (pretend you can see through the tire and tube), you are shortening the spoke properly.

Generally you work with a group of about four or five spokes at the site of the bend, shortening a few and lengthening some others. Turn the spoke nipples just a half turn or so each, and check the effect. You should loosen some and tighten others because if you were to tighten only, you would create a flat spot in an otherwise round wheel.

If the bike wheel is quite bent, you may need to work with a larger group, to share the load of pulling the wheel true.

After the wheel is nearly true, tighten whatever spokes are too loose, then finish aligning the wheel.

It is not possible to describe the correct spoke tension. It is something you have to experience for yourself. To know how much to tighten spokes, check several bike wheels using two techniques. Squeeze a handful of spokes at the intersections to see how much they deflect, and turn a few random spokes in various wheels with a spoke wrench. Turn the spokes a half-turn looser, then retighten them the same amount, to get a feel for the correct tightness.

Wheels that require extensive work, or ones that may have an unreliable rim strip should have the tire and tube removed before adjusting spoke lengths to prevent puncturing the inner tube.

If any spokes protrude beyond the tops of the spoke nipples, you will need to file off the excess length.

Unbending A Bicycle Bent Wheel

Wheels that are severely bent cannot be repaired easily. You cannot have the spokes pulling hard against a rim that is very bent. This would cause a weak wheel that may bend again, or perhaps some spokes may break eventually.

In the case of severely bent rims you must unbend the wheel before adjusting the spokes. Standing on the wheel, or leaning on it against a table will do the trick. Some people will hit it with a big rubber mallet. However you do it, be sure you are operating on the exact area where the bend is. If you accidentally add another bend, instead of fixing the first one, the repair will be much more difficult.

Severely bent aluminum (also known as "alloy") rims are more difficult to straighten than steel rims because they are springier and more brittle at the same time. If you have done major work on an aluminum rim, check it carefully for visible cracks. If you find a crack, the rim should not be used.

Unbending a wheel is a skill that requires lots of practice to be a reliable repair technique. Good luck!

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 4 (Adjust The Rear Wheel Bearings)

Coaster brake and three-speed hubs have bearings just like front wheels, and are adjusted in nearly the same way.

Coaster Brake Wheels

On most coaster brakes, you must make the adjustment on the right hand (sprocket) side.

Three-Speed Wheels

A Sturmey-Archer or Suntour three-speed hub with a little "indicator" chain must be adjusted only on the left (non-sprocket) side of the hub.

If your bike has a Shimano three-speed with the lever on the right side, then it is adjusted only on the right (sprocket) side of the hub.

Derailleur-Equipped and BMX Bicycle Wheels

On derailleur-equipped bikes, you need to take the freewheel off to adjust the cones properly. You'll need a specific freewheel remover tool for your brand of freewheel. There are about six common types. Take your bike to the bicycle store so they can see what you need and sell you the right one. Most freewheel removers are under twelve dollars.

Insert the remover fully. If it is the type with prongs, screw the axle nut or quick release skewer back on loosely to keep the tool from slipping. Grab the remover in a vise or with a large wrench and unscrew it counter-clockwise (like a jar lid). It may be quite tight. If you are using the pronged type remover, after the freewheel is loosened, remove the axle nut or quick release skewer, before you finish unscrewing the freewheel.

Adjust the wheel bearings just like you would do with a front wheel.

You can sometimes adjust the bearing cones without removing the freewheel by working on the left side only. However, you run the risk that the right side locknut (under the freewheel) is not tight enough against the right side bearing cone to keep it from suddenly turning and locking up the rear wheel or damaging the hub. You can not guarantee that the right bearing cone is secure when just the outer locknut on the freewheel side is tight, so it really is best to remove the freewheel and do it right.

Putting the freewheel back on is much easier. Just screw it on, but carefully. Don't cross-thread!

Overhauling

Overhauling rear wheel bearings on most derailleur-equipped bikes is as easy as front wheel bearings, as long as you can remove the freewheel. Overhauling coaster brakes and three-speed hubs is possible, but rather complex. In most, you remove the left bearing cone, then disassemble the hub from the right (sprocket) side. Do not overhaul a coaster brake or three-speed hub unless you are prepared for the possibility that you may not be able to finish the job.

Freewheels - Overhaul, General Care and Troubleshooting

"Freewheel" is the name of the group of sprockets on rear wheels of derailleur-equipped bikes. Overhauling freewheels is possible but not easy or recommended for beginners. Most bicycle shop professionals do not overhaul freewheels. The alternatives are to soak the entire unit in solvent, let it dry, then soak a small amount of oil into it, or to replace it. However, replacing a freewheel should only be done if you replace the chain at the same time. That's because the freewheel's sprockets and the chain wear together. As the chain stretches, the spacing between the sprocket teeth also increases. If you replace only one or the other, you may end up with a skipping effect in the highest gears (smallest sprockets).

If you have an occasional, non-rhythmic skip on a bike with an old chain and freewheel, it is time to replace them. If the skip happens at regular intervals, the problem is most likely a stiff chain link, dirt on the freewheel sprockets, or a damaged sprocket tooth.

Most freewheels have a left-hand threaded plate screwed onto the outer surface of their core. The plate has two holes. You can place a small punch against one of the holes, and tap on it with a hammer. The plate will unscrew, and the freewheel will then fall apart. There are lots of (usually 78) 1/8" ball bearings inside which will fall out.

After cleaning the freewheel, put grease in the grooves in which the bearing balls run, and stick the balls into the grease to hold them in position while reassembling the freewheel. Leave a gap for one or two balls in each groove. Do not grease the ratcheted surface against which the two (sometimes three) pawls ('clickers') run, but instead coat it with a small amount of oil. In cold weather, grease could impede the movement of the pawls. You will find a few very thin shims stacked on the core of the freewheel. These fragile shims are used to adjust the closeness of the bearings. Be careful in handling them, because if you damage one and have to leave it out, the freewheel will usually be too tight to work properly. After reassembling the freewheel, set a punch against one of the two holes in the top plate, and bang repeatedly, but lightly against it to tighten it fully. This plate is rather brittle, so you'll want to apply the force as numerous small hits rather than clobbering it.

Most freewheels have removable sprockets, but for many brands, replacements are unavailable. Sprockets can be removed with a pair of tools made by attaching bicycle chain to bars. While holding one such sprocket tool on a large sprocket, unscrew the smallest sprocket and then the second smallest. Most freewheel sprockets have regular right-hand threading.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 3 (Adjust The Front Wheel Bike Hub)

Although many modern bicycles have non-adjustable, wheel hubs, many still require adjustment. If your bike has "cartridge" or non-adjustable hubs, you can skip this section. "Sealed" only means that your hubs have seals to help keep dirt and water out, but does not identify whether your hubs are adjustable. Your bike shop can help you figure out what you have.

If the hubs are too tight or too loose, you will soon damage the parts.

By setting the hub cones close together, the adjustment becomes tight. Screwing them farther apart causes looseness. When a wheel is off the bike, set the adjustment to very slight wiggliness, because clamping the wheel into the bike compresses the hubs slightly. Once installed, there should be just barely detectable looseness at the rim, or none at all.

On many American bikes, you simply turn one of the cones before tightening the axle nuts that hold the wheel on the bike.

Most others have thin locknuts that are jammed against the cones to keep the adjustment from drifting. To operate on this type, loosen the locknut on one side, use thin "cone wrenches" to change the adjustment, then retighten the locknut.

If it is impossible to adjust the wheel so that the hubs are not too tight and not too loose at the same time, or if the hubs feel gravelly when turned, an overhaul is recommended to examine the parts for wear, and replace whatever is needed.

If the side of the wheel hub looks particularly dirty, and if the hubs are not sealed, then overhaul is a good idea to clean out the old, dirty grease, and replace it with fresh grease.

To overhaul the hubs, unscrew one locknut and hub cone from the axle over a cloth. In most hubs, the balls will fall out. Clean everything as much as you can, using a non-flammable, safe-to-breathe solvent. Examine everything for wear, especially the hub cones, the cups (inner surfaces of the hub) and the balls. The bearing balls should be shiny, not dull. Although rare, you should check for cracking of the hub body itself, especially around the outsides of the cups. Put fresh grease in the cups, stick the hubs into the grease, put the cones and locknuts back on the axle, and adjust properly.

If your hub has cages that hold the balls in groups, note which way they fall out, and put them back the same way. Almost always, the balls face each other, and the backs of the cages face toward the outside.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 2 (Bottom Bracket Adjustment)

There are several design variations of the bicycles bearings between the pedals, called the bottom bracket, or crank bearings. Whatever type you have, the adjustment is performed in the same way, however:

If your bike has sealed, non-adjustable bottom bracket bearings, skip ahead to the information below about bicycle cranks and bicycle pedals. Many modern bikes have sealed bearings, but they may still require adjustment.

Loosen the bike's outer locknut or ring (which is left-hand threaded on most American-made bikes, so to loosen, you'd turn it clockwise), turn the inner nut or "cup" to get the proper adjustment, and then re-tighten the locknut or ring. You may need to try this several times to get it right. Check the adjustment with the chain off. There should be no bearing looseness and yet the cranks should spin freely.

Many older style bikes have crank cotters. These are special bolts with a tapered, flattened side. One goes through each crank, holding it to the crank axle ("spindle"). In time they become worn, which causes a clunky looseness as you turn the pedals. To replace a cotter, remove the nut, and carefully hit the threaded end with a hammer. Normally, the cotter will slip out of its hole. If it doesn't, try to avoid killing it with your hammer. You may need to heat up the crank, or drill the cotter out. Put grease on the new cotter, tighten the nut on, tap it lightly with a hammer and retighten it. Cotters are soft steel, so don't overtighten the nut.

Many newer bikes have "cotterless" cranks. These have a bolt or nut usually under a metal or plastic cap on each side. These bolts must be kept tight or you can damage the cranks. Check these bolts every month or two. Cotterless cranks cannot be removed reliably without a special tool available at bike shops. Fortunately, this tool is low-cost, generally under twenty dollars.

Pedals

Check that the pedals are tight on the cranks, especially in the winter. The left side pedal is always left-hand threaded. Turn it the opposite of a jar lid to remove or put on.

If you remove pedals, you should put a thin coat of grease on their threads, because pedals in contact with cranks for a long time tend to become stuck due to rust or electrolytic action.

If you have a stuck pedal, put a wrench on it, and bang on the end of the wrench with a soft hammer. Wear goggles, since the wrench may jump or chip. Do not use a wrench you care about, because it may stretch or break. Bicycle shops can sell you a long pedal wrench which gives you more leverage, and is especially thin to fit on some pedals which do not have much room for a regular wrench. If you have a pedal you want to remove which is very resistant, heat the end of the crank. Heat the crank only until a drop of oil applied to it starts to smoke. Any more than that, and the heat may destroy the metal of the crank.

It is very important not to mix up the pedals, since the left pedal is left-threaded. Putting the wrong pedal on the wrong crank can damage the threads. Most pedals are marked with an "L" and an "R" to help you distinguish.

Bicycle Tune-Up Step 1 (Adjust The Bicycle Headset & Check The Handlebar Stem)

Some modern bikes have sealed, non-adjustable headset bearings. All others require checking the adjustment even if they are sealed.

While the bike is on the floor, use two tests to check your headset adjustment. First, lift the front wheel off the ground by holding the top tube of the frame. If the headset is loose enough, the handlebar and front wheel will flop to one side or the other. Next, apply the front brake or hold the front wheel from turning, and push the bike back and forth an inch or two on the floor. A loose headset will click a little.

A headset which is loose will wear out soon. One which is already worn out will be gravelly or self-centering like an old-fashioned bar stool. This will impede safe steering. A headset which is too tight will also make steering difficult.

The bikes headset adjusts like most bike bearings. There is an adjustable cup or cone at the top, and a locknut above that. By screwing the adjustable cone or cup closer to the bearings, the adjustment gets tighter. On many headsets there is an interlocking mechanism that means you will have to loosen the locknut several turns. On some there are two locknuts that must be loosened before you can make the adjustment. One may be hidden under a reflector bracket, or brake cable holder.

Two types of bicycle handlebar stems are in current use. The most modern type clamps around the top of the bikes fork and is tightened with one or two allen head bolts. If you ride in all types of weather, the bolts should be removed, greased, and retightened. With any steel bolts that thread into aluminum alloy, a thin coating of grease is helpful years down the line, when corrosion would otherwise lock them together.

The older style is called a 'threaded stem,' and has an interesting design. In order to adjust the stem height, you must first loosen the top stem bolt two or three turns and then bang it down with a soft hammer. This releases an internal wedge. While the stem is loose, take it out and grease the shaft of the stem and the wedge threads. To reinstall, tighten the bolt once you are satisfied with the position. There must be at least 2-1/2 inches of handlebar stem inserted into the fork. Check to see that the stem is properly tight by trying to turn the handlebar while trapping the front wheel between your knees. Also check that the handlebar is secure in the stem.

If you feel that the bicycles handlebar is too low, and the stem cannot be raised enough, consider purchasing a taller handlebar.

Park RK-41 Portable Race/Ride Tool Kit

A custom built backpack that transforms into a portable workstation. Ingenious fold out interior creates a convenient tool board that makes it easy to set up a workstation at any race, ride or home workshop. A variety of pockets and straps keep tools organized and secure for transport. Flexible compression netting and extra utility pockets secure odd shaped items.

Park AK-37 Advanced Mechanic Tool Kit

Includes:
AWS-1, AWS-3, BBT-5 , BBT-9, BBT-22, CC-3, CWP-6 CCW-5, CBW-1, CBW-4, CL-1, CM-5, CN-10 , CNW-2 , CT-3 FR-5 GP-2, GSC-1 PPL-1 , PW-3, SCW-13 , SCW-14, SCW-15, SCW-16, SCW-17 , SCW-18 , SCW-19 , SD-0, SD-2, SD-6, SR-1 SW-0, SW-1, SW-2, TB-2, TL-1

2010 Scattante CFR Pro Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 Road Bike

BOTTOM BRACKET:	FSA K-Force Light BB30
BRAKES:	Tektro R750, carbon, dual pivot
CASSETTE:	Shimano Dura-Ace CS-7900, 10-speed, cogs: 11-23T
CHAIN:	KMC DX-10SL, 116L, 10-speed
CRANKSET:	FSA K-Force Light for BB30, 34/50T chainrings
FORK:	Full carbon, carbon steerer, tapered 1 1/8" to 1 1/2"
FRAME:	Full monocoque 3k carbon frame with BB30 shell, Quill seat stays, 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" tapered head tube, braze-on front derailleur mount, double water bottle mounts, down tube barrel adjusters, and replaceable rear derailleur hanger
FRONT DERAILLEUR:	Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 FD-7970 Braze-On
GRIPS/TAPE:	Velo Gel
HANDLEBAR:	Deda Ultra, width: 50-53cm=400mm, 55-61cm=420mm,C-C; 31.7mm clamp
HEADSET:	FSA IS-2, FSA carbon top cap
LEVERS:	Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 ST-7970
PEDALS:	NA
RACK MOUNTS:	No
REAR DERAILLEUR:	Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 RD-7970, 10-speed
SADDLE:	Selle Italia Flite Gel Flow
SEATPOST:	Deda Ultra, 27.2mm diameter, 340mm length
SHIFTERS:	Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 RD-7970, 10-speed
STEM:	Deda Newton, width: 50cm=100mm, 53cm=110mm, 55cm=120mm, 58-61cm=130mm, -5 degree, 31.7mm clamp
TIRES:	Vittoria Rubino Pro, 700c x 23
WHEELSET:	Mavic Ksyrium SL Premium, Front: 18 Radial spokes, Rear: 20 2-Cross Radial spokes for Shimano 10-speed

Service and Repair

Loosen your BB - Sealed bottom brackets run smoother and last considerably longer if they are not cranked into the frame too tightly. You can actually triple or even quadruple your mileage! Install your bottom bracket normally and snug it up. Then, back up just a pinch. You can, by hand, feel the bearing smoothness loosen up as you do this. The technical spec for this torque pressure is 30NM. Rely on liquid thread lock on the threads to keep the bottom bracket in place. Campagnolo Tech, March 2002

Fix a torn tire while out on the road - If you slash the sidewall on your clincher tire, don't despair. Remove the tire then insert a dollar bill or a wrapper from a Power Bar between the tire and your tube. Patch your tube if necessary. Then, re-inflate. The strength of the bill or wrapper should be more than needed to get you home safe and sound.

Bleeding disc brakes - "On average, a good hydraulic disc brake will only need bleeding (that is, it'll either need more fluid or it'll need air taken out of the line) every year or two, unless you develop a leak. As long as the hydraulic lines are properly secured and you regularly check the brake's fittings and bolts for proper torque, leaks should only be caused by some kind of extreme incident." Mountain Bike Magazine, February 2002

Detect a worn chain - Tension the chain by pressing lightly on the right pedal. Hold a 12" ruler against the chain. On a fresh chain the distance of 12 full links, from pin to pin, is exactly 12". If 12 links on your chain measure 12 1/8" or more then it is time to replace your chain. If you replace your chain regularly, you will get decidedly longer life out our your chainrings and cassette cogs. Plus, you will have a quieter drivetrain with smoother shifting.

Grease your seatpost, stem, and bottom bracket often - One of the most common major problems that we run into in the shop is a seized seatpost or quill stem. And since the advent of sealed bottom brackets, they can seize too. The solutions to release a seized part, though varied, are usually time consuming and expensive. But, it's not difficult to prevent these problems from ever occurring. Wrap a piece of electrical tape around your post and stem to mark their position. Then, remove both items, wipe down, re-grease, reinsert. Do this every six months, more often if you really sweat. Bottom brackets should be removed, cleaned, and reinserted once a year, more often if the bike gets ridden in the rain. Your bike and your mechanic will really thank you!

Oil your spoke nipples - At least once a year go around each wheel and put a drop of thick oil on every spoke nipple, both where the spoke meets the nipple and where the nipple meets the rim. This will make it much easier to adjust your spokes long term.

Replace your pedal cleats - "A good rule of thumb is that cleats should be replaced when there is a change in the release/engagement effort for your pedal." Shimano Tech, Oct 2001

Don't store your mountain bike vertically - It is very common to store bikes by hanging them from the front wheel. We do this in the shop. But if you hang a mountain bike that way for a long time then the oil in the shocks can leak out. If you find a bunch of oil all over your stem or seatstays then be sure to get your shocks overhauled before you use them again. The same thing is true for hydraulic brakes - hang your bike upside down and you will probably find brake fluid all over the floor - never a good thing!

Change the oil in your suspension fork - "There is no hard-and-fast rule as to when you should change your fork oil, except for this: it's worth the effort to change the oil in your fork after its first 20 hours of use. In the initial break-in period for your fork, all the production remnants and shrapnel (small burrs from machining, casting flash, etc.) will find a new home floating in your oil. And that can restrict your oil's flow through valves. Flush out all the original oil and crud and replace it with new oil. After that, oil changes can happen a lot less frequently, maybe once a year to every 18 months, depending on use." Mountain Bike Magazine, Sept 2001