Old Sprinter’s Trick – Drop The Wheel

In certain situations the best way to win a small group sprint (half a dozen riders away in a break) is to drop the lead rider’s wheel. You’ll see this done on the track quite often, but the same applies to criteriums. What you do is you position yourself as the second rider in the lead up to the finish line (say 300-400m out). Slowly drop the front rider’s wheel about 1-3 bike lengths whilst keeping the others behind in check. This gives you a bit of room to move and ensures that you can maneuver if someone tries a move from behind. Just before final 200m comes accelerate and get a run at the rider in front, catching the slipstream. As you enter into the slipstream, you will gather increased momentum which means you will be able to attack past at speed (at which point the lead rider will be too slow to respond) The fact you have had a “run” at the rider should also mean you have increased momentum to those behind who are trying to accelerate at the same speed as you but without the “run”.

Quite often there will be a corner before the finishing straight in a crit. Dropping the wheel slightly prior to last corner, (not more than 2 bike lengths at this point) allows you to run into corner with extra speed to close the gap while aiming to pass as you exit the corner. The acceleration you’ll gain in that few bike lengths that you’ve given him will not allow him to respond.

You need to be confident and fit enough to know that you’ll close the gap. Don’t under estimate the speed capacity of your opponent if you are going to allow a gap. You don’t want to do this if he/she is a strong time trialist or a significantly better sprinter.

TIP: when in a sprint never look over your shoulder to see what the other riders are doing. Look at their shadows or back under your arm. This will give you much more flexibility to react to the inevitable attack that’s coming when someone behind tries to catch you off-guard

10 Reasons To Love Cyclists

1. Target Practise – A cyclist helps develops our advanced motoring skills. For example, how close can you get to a cyclist without knocking them off? This is quite an art – best practised in a white van whilst travelling 15mph above the speed limit and with mobile phone in your right hand. You have to be careful though because occasionally, cyclists may make ‘dangerous manoeuvres’ like move 10cm to the right to avoid a pothole in the road. If they have the audacity to move more than 1 foot from the edge of the road see no.2.

2. Practise Your Musical Rhythms
. If you see a cyclist in the road, this is an excellent reason to practise sounding your horn. You can practise the art of playing your horn very loudly or you could just practise a simple rhythm like repeatedly holding the horn down. Unfortunately, this can often lead to disappointment as for some reason, beeping a horn is insufficient to make a cyclist disappear from OUR roads.

3. Feeling of Superiority. Now, some cyclists can having that annoying air of self-righteous superiority. They think they are saving the planet by eating home grown leeks and cycling to work. But, whilst we can tolerate their imaginary fantasies, we actually know it is us motorists who are saving the environment because of our decision to use unleaded petrol and occasionally buying 40% recycled plastic in our car air fresheners.

4. Funny To Splash People. This is related to no.1 but actually more fun. With driving over a puddle we get to see more physical evidence of our driving skills. When the road is waterlogged if you drive really fast over a puddle, a big stream of water gets sprayed over other road users and pedestrians. Just watch the face of a cyclist after he gets soaked with your puddle – priceless!

5. Odds Are in Our Favour. Crashes are inevitable on our roads, well at least they are inevitable if we don’t pay attention whilst driving and try to send a text or fall asleep at the wheel. In fact vehicles on British roads kill over 3,000 people a year, but, when you do crash into a cyclist, the odds are heavily in your favour. Their lycra shorts may make a dint in our paintwork, but, this can usually be fixed. Just image if cyclists drove Sherman tanks – when we knocked them down we would have more than a bit of dinted paintwork to deal with! Now that wouldn’t at all be fair – so we should be grateful to cyclists for not threatening our reinforced steel SUVs with nothing more than a thin layer of slightly ridiculous lycra.

6. Humour. Driving is a pretty boring affair. I mean we get stuck in endless traffic jams and it can take one hour to travel just a few miles in Central London. Now it’s pretty annoying that cyclists don’t get so caught up in the traffic congestion – often sneaking up on the inside in these ridiculous cycle lanes. But, next time your stuck in a traffic jam feeling miserable that other people won’t leave their car at home, why not pass the time laughing at other road users. Cyclists are bound to be wearing some ridiculous clothing, or maybe they’re just getting wet. Look on the funny side of these absurd cyclists and suddenly those interminable traffic jams will fly by!

7. Cyclists don’t Wear Down the Road.

No one like potholes, (unless you have one of those 4*4s and like to show off your off-road skills). But, cyclists don’t wear down the road because their bikes weigh very little.


8. Cyclists don’t Pollute the Environment.

No one likes the exhaust fumes created by cars. It is unpleasant and can cause health problems like asthma, not to mention the problems of global warming. But cyclists don’t create any pollution, at least if you don’t count the by product of all those organic baked beans, these hippie, sandal-wearing cyclists often eat.

9. Cyclists don’t take up Valuable Parking Space

Try parking in Central London, – a nightmare. You can spend hours driving around looking for a spot. Just imagine if every bike took the space of a car. We would never be able to park!

10 Reasons to Take Up Cycling

If your reading this, chances are you already cycle or have an interest in cycling.

1. Freedom.

Cycling gives a sense of freedom that sitting in a car can never give. Descending a hill on a bike is exhilarating, something you never feel in a car. Cycling also gives greater freedom about where to go. Many towns are encouraging pedestrian only areas. With a bike you can go down narrow lanes, on canal paths and often cut corners that you cannot do in a car.

2. Quicker Travelling.

In many congested towns, a bike can offer the quickest method of transport. For example, in London average speeds on roads amounts to a paltry 9mph (this is actually lower than 100 years ago!) Even a moderately fit cyclist will have no trouble in beating cars, buses and the underground. Also with a bike, you don’t have to spend time driving around looking for parking. You can park usually exactly where you want to end up.

3. Saves Money.

A good bike costs £200; a reasonable car will cost £5,000. With oil prices rising through the roof, cycling can also save significantly on petrol costs. The majority of car journeys are for distances less than 5 miles. These distances are easily cycleable. These short journeys also have the relatively highest petrol costs because cars are most inefficient at low speeds. It is estimated that leaving the car in the garage for the average commuter could save an estimate £74.14 ($150) per week (source: Cycling Weekly June 19th)

4. Lose Weight

Cycling is a low impact aerobic exercise and is an excellent way of losing weight. Cycling can also be combined with shopping and commuting therefore, enabling very busy people to find time for exercise. It is also a lot cheaper than gaining membership to the gym. With obesity becoming an endemic problem in western society, cycling can play a key role in helping to keep the population in shape.

5. Health Benefits.

Cycling is good for the heart and can help reduce incidence of heart disease, one of the biggest killers amongst developed countries.

6. Relieve Stress.

If you work in an office or have a stressful job, exercise such as cycling can be a powerful way to help reduce stress and take your mind off many problems. Exercise releases chemicals such as serontin. Serontin is known to promote a feeling of well being. But, also vigorous exercise is an effective way to take your mind off trifling problems. Often coming back from a bike ride, you can see problems in a new perspective

7. It’s Egalitarian

Everyone cycles, it is the great social leveller. Rich or poor, Oxford don or little kid, everyone can enjoy cycling.

8. Reduce Global Warming

Cycling creates no pollution or Carbon dioxide emission. It provides a powerful way to help make a meaningful contribution to reducing pollution and preventing future global warming.

9. Less Accidents.

Unlike Cars, bikes are not lethal machines. In the UK, over 3,000 people a year die on the roads due to car accidents. An accident involving bikes may cause injury, but, very rarely will a bike be the cause of a fatal accident. If more people cycled it would definitely help reduce the death rate on our roads.

10. It’s Fun.

The bike has repeatedly been voted the most popular invention of the past 200 years. Cycling is simply great fun.

Cycle Training Tips

I love training almost as much as racing. I think to enjoy training is a very important aspect. If you have motivation and enthusiasm; if you are positive about riding, then you are going to make much more progress than if you just feel you need to churn out the miles to meet some training target.

These are some of my training tips

Realistic Plan. I’m not a great believer in writing out complicated plans and ambitious training schedules. I like to retain a certain flexibility. But, at the start of each year / month / week, I try to be conscious of what I want to achieve in that particular week / month. For example, at the start of March, I want to get prepared for the first races, by doing some hard hilly rides in preparation for the hilly time trials.
Flexibility. It’s important to be flexible. Don’t train when over tired. Don’t fret over losing a day. If you feel strong and have more time, push yourself a bit harder.

Ride by Time / effort not distance speed. Speed can be confusing. On a dual carriageway with tribars you can float along at 25 mph without much problem. But in the middle of winter, on a cold windy day on your winter training bike the same effort level may give you a speed of 16mph. Don’t be demoralised by the low speed. I actually love the switch over from winter to summer training bike around April when suddenly with warmer weather and faster bike, you can add an extra 1 mph to your speed.

Be careful of weight training.
Some advise weight training as a great way to increase power and strength, especially in the winter. The key is not to strain your muscles, but, go for medium weights with many repetitions. As a cyclist you don’t need chunky leg muscles. Just see some of the top climbers who are very ‘wiry’

Keep a training diary
. I find it fascinating looking back at training rides to see how a season develops. It encourages you to stick to a regular training scheme and measure progress. For example, in February I may do a test 10 mile TT to find how I am going. I am always shocked to do something like a 26 minute 10. It feels painfully slow. Yet, in a few months, I will be doing a 21 minute 10. A training diary can give you a few clues to progress and also encourage you to keep regular training.

Train with other people. I spend alot of my training time on my own. But, it is good to have 1 or 2 training sessions with other people. It provides company to help pass time on long base mile training sessions. It can also help you push yourself to your limits. When you are with other people, your natural competitiveness will come to the fore and this will help you train harder. Everyone is different, but, it is good to train with others, at least part of the time.

Tapering. To really get the peak performance it is important to taper for some key races. This basically involves reducing the duration of training to keep you fresh. However, at the same time you can’t taper for every race as you will not make enough progress. Some races you will be doing after a heavy training week.

Bring Newness into Training. Don’t just do the same training rides every day. Variety helps to keep a sense of newness. In winter don’t think you have to spend 3 months staying at a heart rate of 65-75%, it will do no harm to ride fast up a few hills. Look for new hills or routes to do interval training on. Even buy a mountain bike and do some off road training.

Blocks of sessions. The key to good training is periods of stress followed by recovery. After a very hard interval session, have a day or two of easy riding, to allow the body to recover. Similarly don’t churn out a high mileage week every week. After a high mile week have a lower mileage week

Stretching. Good stretching helps retain agility and flexibility, especially important as you get older…

Good warm up. Take at least 20 minutes of light spinning before you do intense work. This lessens the chance of injury. Similarly you need a good warm up to the season, with a good base of miles before any interval training.

Short training sessions can make a big difference. If you are very busy, even training for 30 mins to 1 hour can make a big difference to retaining fitness. If you stop quickly after 10 days, your fitness will deteriorate rapidly. It takes 3 times as long to regain what you lose. Even training for 30 minutes can help retain your fitness.

Cross Training. I’m not a great fan of cross training, but, it has many advantages especially if you can’t cycle for some reason. The best form of cross training is swimming followed by walking up stairs.

Training in the wind. For psychological reasons I like to avoid setting off with a strong tailwind. I would rather ride into a headwind and cycle back with a tailwind. If the wind is very strong try to ride into a cross wind.

Twenty Three Tips For The Best Cycling

About 90 million American adults ride a bike at least once a year, nearly 30 million cycle regularly for recreation, and a few million even commute by bicycle, according to a recent article in American Demographics. Those numbers may rise in the next few years, thanks to federal legislation that encourages local communities to build cycling into their transit plans. That's good not only for the environment, but also for the nation's health, since cycling is one of the best forms of exercise around. It gives the heart and circulatory system a workout; it puts little stress on joints (except perhaps the knees); it can burn 400 to 700 calories per hour; and if you own a bike, cycling is free and can be done just about anywhere.

Here are some steps you can take to improve cycling performance, safety, comfort, and enjoyment:

Use your head

1. Absolutely crucial: always wear a helmet. Of the nation's 800 annual cycling deaths, head injuries account for about 60%. If all cyclists wore helmets, perhaps half of these deaths and injuries—especially in children—could be avoided. Choose a bright color, and make sure the helmet fits properly. It should sit horizontally on your head and shouldn't move about.

Do the right thing

2. Brake right. To exert optimal pressure, brake with your hands at the ends of the levers. For a quick stop, as you press the brakes firmly, slide your buttocks to the very back of the saddle. This will keep the rear of the bike down so that you don't flip over the handlebars.

3. On a long downhill, don't stay on your brakes. That may overheat the tire's rim and could cause a blowout. It's safest to "feather brake"—that is, tap the brakes, applying intermittent pressure. This is wise in wet weather, too.

4. Don't pedal in high gear for long periods. This can increase the pressure on your knees and lead to overuse injuries such as biker's knee. Shift to lower gears and faster revolutions to get more exercise with less stress on your knees. The best cadence for most cyclists is 60 to 80 revolutions per minute (rpm), though racers pedal in the range of 80 to 100 rpm.

5. Going uphill, shift gears to maintain normal cadence. On a long hill, conserve energy by staying in your seat.

6. When cycling at night or when visibility is poor, wear brightly colored, reflective clothing, and use your headlight. In fact, wearing bright colors is a good idea at any hour. Also consider a rear strobe-type light (attached to the bike or your belt) to enhance visibility at night.

Easy rider

7. Make sure your bike fits. Handlebars, saddle, wheels, gears, and brakes can all be adjusted to match your size and riding ability, but the frame has to fit from the start. To find the right frame size, straddle the bike and stand flatfooted: on a road bike, there should be one to two inches of clearance between your groin and the top tube. On a mountain bike, the clearance should be two to three inches or even more.

8. Position the saddle right to protect your knees. At the bottom of the stroke, your knee should be only slightly bent. If your knee is bent too much, the seat is too low, and you will lose stroking power and strain your knees. If the knee locks when extended, or if you have to reach for the pedal, the seat is too high, which can also stress the knee. The saddle should be level.

9. Position the handlebars correctly—one inch lower than the top of the seat. Drop handlebars (preferable because they allow you to change your riding position) should be about as wide as your shoulders or slightly narrower. Some cyclists who suffer from neck or back discomfort may prefer upright handlebars.

10. To avoid saddle soreness, get the right seat. The hard narrow seats on racing bikes can be particularly uncomfortable for women, who tend to have widely spaced "sit bones." Special anatomically designed saddles—wider and more cushioned at the back—are easy to install. Gel-filled saddles or pads or sheepskin pads can ease the pressure and friction.

11. Change your hand and body position frequently. That will change the angle of your back, neck, and arms, so that different muscles are stressed and pressure is put on different nerves.

12. Don't ride in the racing "drop" position (with your hands on the curved part of the handlebars) for a long time. This may cramp your hands, shoulders, and neck.

13. Unless you're an experienced cyclist, don't use those special aerodynamic handlebars—shaped like an upside-down "V"—which let you lean forward on your forearms and thus reduce wind drag and increase your speed. These increase the risk of injury.

14. After a long uphill, don't coast downhill without pedaling. As you climb up the hill, lactic acid builds up in your muscles and can contribute to muscle soreness. By pedaling lightly but constantly while coasting downhill (even if there's little resistance) you can help remove the lactic acid.

15. Keep your arms relaxed and don't lock your elbows. This technique helps you absorb bumps from the road better.

16. Wear the right shorts if you cycle a lot. Sleek cycling shorts have less fabric to wrinkle or bunch up, so there's less chance of skin irritation. For extra protection, choose cycling shorts with special lining or padding to wick away perspiration and no seams at the crotch.

17. Don't wear headphones. They can block out the street sounds you need to hear in order to ride defensively. Cycling with headphones is a misdemeanor in some areas.

Good road sense

18. Ride with traffic, obey all signs, and give right of way to cars.

19. Use hand signals to alert drivers to your intentions.

20. Try to make eye contact with drivers as you pull into an intersection or make a turn, so they know your intentions and you know that they've seen you.

21. Don't ride side by side with another cyclist.

22. Watch out for storm drains, cattle guards, and rail-road tracks. They're all slippery when wet. And if you don't cross them at a right angle, your front tire may get caught.

23. When cycling in heavy traffic, on a narrow road, or on winding downhill roads, ride in the lane with the cars, not to the side, where you're not as visible and may get pushed off to the side. Of course, if a car wants to pass, move out of the way.

Design Philosophies


People usually say, “Don’t re-invent the wheel” when they want a quick and easy solution to a problem. The trouble with that approach is that when you try and solve problems by looking at what others have done before, you stifle creativity and limit your ability to come up with truly original and unique solutions.

We take a contrarian view. For us, “Re-inventing the wheel” is a philosophy that we embrace. Re-inventing takes a lot of time and it often takes us down the wrong road. But it also leads to bright flashes of brilliance and insight that ultimately result in quantum leaps forward. This approach to our work is why, Dr. David Hon, our founder, left Hughes Aircraft and started his own company after all of the large bicycle manufacturers rejected his original folding bicycle design.

This approach is also why, time and again, we have introduced innovations that have swept through the bicycle industry. And it is why we have one of the most prolific and well-respected R&D teams in the bicycle industry. Today, after more than 25 years of building the world’s most popular folding bicycles, we stand at the beginning of the 21st century and look forward to the continued challenge of building environmentally responsible mobility solutions for the global community.

The 15% Rule
The 15% rule is our commitment to improve our bikes by at least 15% each and every year. This 15% improvement can come in the form of improved riding performance, increased comfort, lighter weight, improved folding function, or enhanced durability. This 15% target puts a lot of pressure on us but it means that you can be assured that we’ll never be resting on our laurels – we’ll always be searching for ways to improve our product. So if you haven’t ridden a Dahon in a year or two, take one for a test ride. We promise you’ll be impressed.

Built to Last
So many of the products that are manufactured today are disposable. We’re appalled by the poor quality of so many of the products that we see. We remember when children’s toys were sturdy enough to be handed down from child to child. Now, many of the toys out there are lucky to last a few months of use before falling apart. That’s why our landfills are filling up so rapidly and why we are seeing so many shortages in raw materials. A lot of the bicycles built today fall into the disposable category – low quality bearings, poorly coated materials that rust quickly, and corner cutting everywhere add up to a product that won’t last more than a year or two. We want our bikes to be part of the solution, not part of the problem and that’s why we’ve made a commitment to using higher quality materials and components that last longer. Details like stainless steel spokes, sealed hubs and bearings, stainless steel frame latches, chromeplastic fenders that will never rust, and anodized finishes on aluminum components are found on every one of our bikes, even the most economic models. We get emails almost every day from customers that are still riding bikes that are 10 or 15 years old and that’s the way we like it.

Bikes for Everybody
Some people like super exclusive brands with high prices that lend their owners a veneer of superiority. Dahon has been criticized in the past for making “cheap” bikes. But our corporate mission is to change the world for the better by getting more butts onto bikes. And you don’t change the world a whole lot by selling small numbers of thousand dollar folding bikes. We want to make folding bicycles accessible to anyone, anywhere in the world, who wants one and that means making our bikes affordable. So even though we enjoy designing high-end bikes and will continue to expand the high end of our line, we’ll always make “cheap” bikes that are packed with value so that we can make a real impact on society.

Light is Right
Sure, there are lots of folding bicycles on the market, but how many of them are truly portable? A bicycle isn’t portable if it’s too heavy to lift into your car or carry across a subway station. Portable bicycles need to be light. And we make the lightest folding bikes in the world. Each year, every part of every bike is scrutinized by our team of engineers to see how we can make it stronger or lighter. The result: what you thought was a pretty darn good bike last year gets just a bit stronger and lighter this year. Our obsession with weight is why even our steel frame bicycles are lighter than the aluminum frame bicycles of most other manufacturers. Following are some of the technologies we use to build some of the world’s lightest folding bicycles:

  • Premium Frame Materials – Everything starts with the frame and that’s why we choose the best materials for our frames. All of our aluminum frames are made from custom drawn and double-butted Sonus 7005 aluminum tubing. Even steel frames are made from seamless 4130-chromoly steel that has been work-hardened in a special machining process.
  • Frame Design – Frame design can be even more important than frame material in building a light frame. A good frame is strong and light. Some frames on the market are strong but heavy. A few are light but not strong enough. And many of the cheaper folding bikes on the market are neither light nor strong. Many of our latest patented technologies focus on how to make a strong but lightweight frame. These technologies include our Re-Bar™ technology, Sonus tubing, PowerBulge technology, Embed bottom brackets, and WrapAround chainstays.
  • Frame Details – Butted tubing, CNC machined head tubes, forged hinges and drop-outs.
  • Super-Oversize Seat Posts – We use custom 34 mm seatposts on all of our compact bikes. The larger diameter tubing lets us use thinner tubing while maintaining strength.
  • Careful Parts Selection – In the months leading up to the introduction of each year’s models, our bicycle designers fall asleep with their arms wrapped around digital weight scales. That’s because a big part of what they do is searching for lighter and better new components. Each potential component is weighed, tested, and ridden. Lighter tire casings, narrower and shorter chains, Kevlar cable housing, compact brake arms, CompactDrive chain rings and sprockets, aluminum spoke nipples – these are just some of the many ways we lighten our bikes. In each case, the difference is only a few grams but when you can cut 5% of weight off each component, it adds up. The final crucial piece to building sanely light bikes is proper testing equipment. Every frame and every component we make is sent to our testing department for a battery of tests. Testing lets us know how much of a safety margin we have and how far we can push the weight envelope. Here’s a good question: how many folding bike manufacturers actually have their own in-house testing equipment?

Safety First
We are committed to building the safest bikes possible. Our bikes incorporate many different design features and technologies to improve safety. Following are some of the many ways we ensure the highest levels of safety:

  • ISO 9001 Manufacturing – Our main factory, where every one of our frames is welded and processed, is ISO certified to meet extremely high standards in production control.
  • Vertical Manufacturing – We’ll bet you didn’t know this but most bicycle companies don’t make their own bikes. They sub-contract assembly of their bikes to huge OEM factories that are producing all kinds of bikes for all kinds of customers. And with few exceptions those companies that do have their own factories don’t produce their own frames. This is what’s known in the industry as a screw driver factory. Frames are out sourced, components are out-sourced: the factory just has an assembly line to slap all the parts together. All this out-sourcing can be highly efficient and tends to reduce prices but the problem with this approach is that it is much harder to rigorously control quality when the production doesn’t take place in your own factory. That’s why we have our own factory and we weld and process our own frames. Not only that but we are heavily vertically integrated, meaning that we even do most of our own tube cutting, forming, and stamping. The end result is a higher degree of control over quality and much faster solutions when we do find a problem.
  • In-house Testing Machinery – It’s all well and good to manufacture your own bikes but it is also critically important to put all new frame and components to the test before they hit the market. Multiple samples of every new frame and component we make are sent to our testing department for a battery of tests. Testing lets us build in adequate safety margins.
  • Strong Frames – The large majority of folding bicycles on the market are built with low cost, high tensile (low carbon) steel. Our frames are TIG welded out of the best materials, like 4130-chromoly and double-butted 7005 aluminum alloy. And much of our patented technology is centered around getting the most strength out of the material that we use.
  • BioLogic™ Frame Geometry – Have you ever hopped aboard a small-wheeled folding bike and been shocked by the poor handling characteristics. Our new BioLogic™ II geometry delivers the surest and most stable ride available. We’ve designed folding bicycles for over 25 years and our BioLogic™ II geometry is the result of that experience.
  • DoubleLok Technology – All Dahon bikes feature a second safety lock on every folding mechanism. DoubleLok technology provides an extra margin of safety and peace of mind for the rider.
  • Lifetime Frame Warranty – Of course, all of these technologies wouldn’t mean a thing if our frames weren’t rock solid. That’s why we can offer a lifetime* warranty on all of our frames and folding components.

Pango Folding Helmet


Description

Most bike helmets on the market today are designed for sports. They’re bulky, damage easily in bags (how many times have you ripped off a visor?), and styled aggressively. But that’s not what you want from an everyday commuting helmet.

Enter the Dahon Pango, a helmet with patented folding technology that folds down to half the size of a typical helmet, or roughly the size of a Kleenex tissue box. It slides easily into any bag; no more dangling off the handlebars. The styling is distinctively clean – no loud colors or huge logos. The unique panel design lets you adjust functionality and styling – on rainy days, simply replace the vented panel with the solid panel. Makes sense, doesn’t it?

Features

  • Folds to nearly half the volume of regular cycling helmets
  • Stores easily in backpack, bag or large briefcase
  • Fits head sizes 55-61 cm
  • Exchangeable outer panels
  • EN safety certified

BioLogic Bike Mount for iPhone


Description

The BioLogic Bike Mount for iPhone lets you attach your iPhone to your bike’s handlebars so you can track your GPS position, your speed, or distance travelled, while you ride. The Bike Mount is a weatherproof case with a welded touch sensitive membrane so your iPhone is completely protected from the weather but fully functional. The inside of the case is lined with silicon for shock resistance. The Bike Mount pivots so you can use your iPhone in portrait or landscape mode. A membrane protected opening for the camera lens lets you take video or pictures while you ride. Fully compatible with the BioLogic ReeCharge

Features
  • Weatherproof – welded touch-sensitive membrane prevents water ingress
  • 360 degree pivot – portrait or landscape mode, it’s your choice
  • Shock resistant – protective silicon lining inside the hard outer shell (Not recommended for off-road use)
  • Weather protected openings for camera, headphones and charge cable
  • Compatible with iPhone, iPhone 3G, and iPhone 3Gs